Tips

Equipment Operating & Lawn Care Tips

Aerating & Power Raking

Overseeding

Sanding a Hardwood Floor

Chainsaw techniques

Mulching & Composting Tips

Tree Pruning

Keeping Your Grass Green During the Summer

Aerating Your Lawn

Why aerate your lawn?

Soil compaction, caused by traffic such as walking and mowing, is one of the greatest causes of turf deterioration. When soil is compacted dirt particles are forced together, reducing the area where roots can grow. Aeration, the process of mechanically removing cores of turf to improve the flow of air, water and nutrients in dense, compacted soil, relieves soil compaction by improving the exchange of water and critical nutrients between the atmosphere and grass roots. Aeration increases drought resistance, enhances water and fertilizer uptake, and reduces puddling and water run-off.

For optimal effectiveness aeration should be performed at least once annually. Spring (between March and May) and fall (between August and November) are the ideal times to aerate cool-season grasses, such as perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. Warm-season grasses, such as zoysia grass and bermuda grass, benefit the most from spring or summer aeration. In drier climates aeration helps prevent drought and decreases the amount of watering necessary to help lawns remain healthy.

Soil conditions

Soil conditions will affect the tine depth, and the effectiveness of aeration. When moving from moist to hard (or vice versa) soil conditions check the plug depth and adjust the tines if necessary.

In very hard or dry soils, it may help to water the ground the night before. This will soften your turf and make it easier for the tines to enter the ground.

To test soil conditions, simply probe a garden spade or screwdriver into the turf. The tool should enter the ground two to three inches without effort. If you have trouble doing so, it may be necessary to water the ground the night before aerating.

Aerating on slopes

On sloping ground, it is easier to cut going downhill, rather than across the hill.

Aerating on slopes may cause the aerator's center of gravity to shift. To avoid uneven tine penetration, remove the downhill side weight.

Transporting

Raise the tines by pulling up on the engagement bar.

Never attempt to lift this machine alone.

View CDR's aerators

Information courtesy of Bluebird International

Power Raking Your Lawn

Why power rake your lawn?

A healthy lawn requires adequate water, an exchange of oxygen and nutrients, and a level of microbial activity in its soil. A thatch layer (an accumulation of roots, crowns and grass clippings which creates a dense mat of vegetation at the soil level) of ½ inch acts as an insulator, keeping soil temperatures low and helping to retain moisture. However, when thatch build-up exceeds ½ inch, it can prevent the exchange of water and vital nutrients from the atmosphere to the soil, decreasing the turf's ability to thrive and fight disease and dehydration.

Dethatching, also known as combing or power raking, is a process that removes unwanted thatch. However, some care needs to be taken when dethatching to prevent damage to the roots. It is important to choose a time of year when the grass is in full growth such as the late spring, summer, or fall. This will offer the lawn a better chance of recovery after combing. It is also important to insure that the blades of your Comber are not set too deeply. Below you will find some useful tips on how to get the most from your BlueBird Lawn Comber.

Before you begin

Review all manufacturer's operational instructions and consult the owner's manual.

Check the engine oil and ensure that it is at the engine manufacturer's recommended level.

Mow the lawn to its normal height and allow the lawn to dry.

Set the tine depth so the blades just touch the surface of a flat area, such as a driveway or sidewalk.

Power raking on slopes

On sloping ground, it is easier to power rake going downhill, rather than across hill.

Lawn conditions

To avoid damage, lawns should be cut to normal height and free of moisture.

Thatch build up should be 1/2" before using the Comber, and no more than 3/4". If thatch is over 3/4" two light combings should be performed, one in the spring and one in the fall.

Safety tips

Prior to working, inspect the turf and remove any rocks, string, wire, or other objects that may cause an obstruction.

Prior to working, identify and mark all in-gourd objects to be avoided, such as sprinkler heads, stakes, water valves, clothes line anchors, etc.

Use Combers on turf only.

Keep hands and feet away from moving parts.

Always run the engine in a well ventilated area only.

View CDR's power rakes

Information courtesy of Bluebird International

Overseeding Your Lawn

Why overseed your lawn?

Overseeding, planting grass seed directly into existing turf without tearing up the turf or soil, improves bare spots, increases turf density, crowds out weeds, and enhances lawn color. Most North American lawns are over seven years old, and could benefit from overseeding. Old turf deteriorates and sometimes dies out completely. Today's newer grasses have been developed to better withstand insects, disease, drought, shady conditions, and heavy traffic. By overseeding with these advanced grasses, you can save time and money by decreasing the amount of fertilizer, water, and pesticides your lawn requires.

When is the best time?

Early fall is the prime time for overseeding because soil and atmospheric temperatures are most favorable for seed germination and growth. Weed competition is also less of a factor at this time.

What type of seed to buy?

Purchasing the proper seed for your lawn is very important. Do not try to save money by purchasing a lower quality seed. Inexpensive seeds often times will not adapt well with your lawn and are more susceptible to disease. Try to buy the best seed you can afford, and whenever possible, purchase grass types with specific varietal names. The price of good grass seed is small compared to the time that is invested in your lawn. Your seed supplier can help you determine the right seed for your application. You can also contact the local township authority for soil and seed information.

Preparing the lawn for seed

Before beginning the seeding process there are a few steps to follow. First, mow the existing lawn, with a bagger, to a short height. Do not scalp the lawn, but cut it short to allow new seed to get down to the soil and to prevent competition from existing grass. Second, dethatch and aerate the lawn. Make sure to rake up thatch and weeds before seeding.

Seeding the lawn

Once the lawn is prepared, it is time to seed. Spread out the grass seed, making sure the seed is touching the soil. An actual over seeder will slice through the grass and surface of the soil, allowing new seed to reach the soil. Once the seeding is completed, it may be necessary to cover the seed with light straw or cheesecloth to keep the seed from blowing away or getting eaten by birds.

After seeding, begin frequent, light watering to keep the soil moist until it germinates. After the new plants begin to grow, reduce the watering schedule until it is back to normal. Start mowing grass when it is 2 to 3 inches tall.

Sanding a Hardwood Floor

Hardwood floor installation and restoration is one of the most popular home improvements. CDR stores carry an assortment of hardwood floor sanders and nailers. If you are sanding a hardwood floor for the first time, there are a few things you should consider before tackling your project. For more detailed instructions, please contact your local flooring company.

Inspect the floor. Most hardwood floors are approximately 3/4" thick. If your floor is 1/2" thick or less, a sander can be damaging. Contact a local flooring company for their recommendation. One way to measure the floor's thickness is to remove a register.
Prepare your home/room. Empty the room the best you can. Hardwood floor sanders do have dust collection bags, but there will still be a lot of dust in the air. Increasing the rooms' ventilation is a good idea. A common household fan blowing out of a window can work well. Dust masks as well as ear plugs or a headset are also recommended. Sanders can be noisy.
The Sanders. Drum and edger sanders are most commonly used for hardwood floors. These are heavy-duty, professional sanders. For a look at CDR's sanders, click here. The sanders should be transported in the upright position if possible. Have someone help you load/unload the drum sander. The drum sander has a round drum that rectangle sheets of paper wrap around. This sander is used for the main portion of the room. The edger sander has a round disc. This is used to go near walls and door ways. Edger sanders are important because drum sanders cannot get close to the edge. Sanding these hard to reach areas by hand is very time consuming. Both sanders have long power cords, so an extension cord should not be necessary.
Sand Paper. An average room may require 10 sheets of drum sander paper and 10 for the edger. CDR will supply plenty of paper up front and allow you to return what you don't use.
Drum sand w/rough paper. When you are ready to sand, inspect the surface of the floor for uneven and warped boards. The first round of sanding will involve leveling these problem spots as well as removing old finish, discoloration, and other blemishes. Always tilt the sander back with the drum off the floor before starting. Begin sanding with a rough 20 or 36 grit paper. Most experts recommend starting at a 45 degree angle from the grain, sanding right to left. This helps to level those problem spots. Once the floor is level, sand with the grain. Make sure to cover the floor evenly and to overlap your forward and back passes. Always unplug the sander before changing paper!
Edge sand w/rough paper. Cover the area the drum sander did not reach. Some users recommend a circular motion with the edger sander. It is common to use the same grit as used with the drum sander.
Inspect floor for protruding nails. After each round, it is important to look for nails that are showing. Countersink them so prevent damage to the sander. Also, fill any cracks or gouges with a filling compound.
Sand with medium grit paper. Remember to sand with the grain.
Hand sand any spots that the two power sanders did not reach.
Finish with a fine grit paper.

Tree Pruning

When is the best time?

The best time to prune your trees is during the cold months of the winter. Trees are dormant during the winter and will not be negatively affected by pruning. Plus, with the leaves off the trees, you have a great view of all of your tree’s branches.

Now, before working on your tree, make sure it is not too cold. If the temperature is substantially below freezing, the branches will be brittle and are likely to shatter. Temperatures right around 30 degrees are best.

Begin pruning

Begin pruning the inside branches of the tree and then work out. Branches towards the center of the tree that will not receive a lot of light should be removed. Also, if there are two branches that cross, one should be cut. Pruning the outside branches is where the fun comes in. You get to use your creativity to shape the tree the way you want it to grow and form. You should also trim the tips of the branches to force the tree to fill out.

Finding the right tools

CDR carries an assortment of chain saws, pole saws, and pole-pruners to help with your tree pruning.

For further information and help, contact your local tree service.

View CDR's tree care tools

Keeping Your Lawn Green During the Summer Months

Excerpt from August 2003 "CDR Monthly"

Proper watering and lawn care techniques are vital in keeping your lawn healthy during the hot summer months. Using some basic techniques, it is possible to maintain a healthy lawn and conserve water this summer.

Cool-season grasses need about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week to maintain green color and active growth. It is important to water consistently, as needed, throughout the season, not waiting until the lawn is brown before watering. Towards the beginning of the season it can be beneficial to allow lawns to go under mild drought stress. Forcing the grass roots to search for water actually increases rooting. Mild drought stress can also increase the dark color of the grass. One sure way to tell if your lawn needs watering is the “footprint test.” Walk on your grass, if your footprint impressions remain, it is time to water.

Infrequent, yet thorough watering is essential. Make sure the moisture soaks down to the roots. Frequent watering tends to promote shallower root systems, weeds, and crabgrass. If possible, water early in the day when the lawn is still wet from dew. Watering during the day may just evaporate. While watering at night can increase the chance of diseases. However, if temperatures stay above 68 degrees at night, watering in the late afternoon and early evening is strongly recommended because it reduces the amount of evaporation during the hot day. Remember to make weekly inspections of your landscape. Turf areas by curbs, gutters, sidewalks, and driveways dry out faster because the hot surfaces heat up causing a faster moisture loss. As these dry spots appear, water them with a hose.

There are many ways to conserve water during the summer. The first step is to make sure your sprinkling system is functioning properly. Check for damaged or misaligned sprinkler heads. If using basic lawn sprinklers, make sure they work efficiently with minimal leakage. Check hoses for cracks and missing o-rings. Conserve water by turning on your system manually and setting a timer to turn it off. Even basic lawn sprinklers can be regulated with an inexpensive timer that fits between the faucet and the hose.

Mow your lawn at a higher than normal height and mulch whenever possible. Mulching will not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are actually made up of nearly 75% water! Limit traffic over the lawn, and avoid applying an excess of nitrogen as well as pesticides. Controlling thatch and soil compaction using power rakes and aerators is also important.